Khur-le

Khur-le (also spelled khuli, khuley, or khurle) are thin buckwheat pancakes that have been a daily staple in the central highlands of Bhutan — above all in Bumthang — for as long as buckwheat has been cultivated in the region. In the high valley of Bumthang, where altitude limits the cultivation of rice and where buckwheat thrives in the cool, short growing season, khur-le and other buckwheat preparations historically replaced rice as the foundational carbohydrate of the diet. To eat in Bumthang was traditionally to eat buckwheat: as pancakes, as noodles (puta), as a thick polenta-like preparation (chogdan), or in other forms. Khur-le remains the most recognisable of these preparations and the one most frequently encountered by visitors to the valley.

Buckwheat in Bumthang

Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) is a plant suited to high-altitude, cool climates and poor soils — precisely the conditions of Bhutan's central highlands. Unlike rice, which cannot be grown above roughly 2,000 metres, buckwheat tolerates the elevations of Bumthang's valleys (which sit at roughly 2,600 to 3,000 metres) and the relatively short frost-free season. It has been cultivated in Bumthang for centuries and shaped the district's culinary identity as completely as chili shapes the cuisine of the lower valleys.

The agricultural calendar around buckwheat differs from that around rice: buckwheat is planted in spring and harvested in autumn, with a single growing cycle rather than the potential for double-cropping available in warmer lowlands. The grain is dried and milled into a dark, nutty flour that forms the basis of khur-le and the other buckwheat preparations of the region. The flavour of buckwheat flour is distinctive — earthier and more complex than wheat flour, with a mild bitterness that comes through most clearly in the finished pancake.

Preparation

Making khur-le is simple in principle, though achieving the right texture requires practice. Buckwheat flour is mixed with water — and in some households, with egg — to form a thin, pourable batter. No leavening agent is used: khur-le are flat, unleavened pancakes, closer in concept to a French crêpe or Ethiopian injera than to a leavened flapjack. The batter is ladled onto a hot, lightly greased griddle or flat stone and spread into a thin round. The pancake is cooked on one side until set, then flipped and cooked briefly on the other. The finished khur-le is slightly chewy with a characteristic nutty flavour and a slightly irregular, dimpled surface.

In some recipes, a small amount of wheat or barley flour is mixed with the buckwheat to lighten the texture slightly and make the batter easier to handle. This is more common in households where the pure buckwheat version is considered too heavy for daily consumption. Egg is added in some preparations to enrich the batter and help it hold together on the griddle.

Serving

Khur-le are most commonly eaten for breakfast, served warm with butter and a cup of suja (butter tea). They are also eaten as an accompaniment to main dishes in place of red rice: paired with ema datshi, shamu datshi, honey, or ezay (chili paste), they absorb the sauce of the accompanying dish in much the same way as rice does. Historically, khur-le served as a practical field lunch for cattle and horse herders making their way between the summer pastures of central Bhutan — portable, filling, and requiring no reheating.

In Bumthang's growing tourism economy, khur-le have become an important part of the culinary offering available to visitors. Restaurants and homestays in the Jakar area serve them as a local speciality, often alongside a full range of buckwheat preparations, and the distinctive flavour of buckwheat — unfamiliar to most international visitors — has become part of the Bumthang cultural experience. See also: Bhutanese Cuisine.

References

1. "Recipe: Khur-Le (Buckwheat Pancakes)." MyBhutan Blog.
2. "Khur-Le: Buckwheat Pancakes/Crepes." Romandian Masala.
3. "Khur-Le." World Food Guide.
4. "Food and Drink in Bhutan." Bhutan Tourism Council.